Tuesday 11th Rylstone

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Re: Tuesday 11th Rylstone

Postby johnnightingale » Tue Jul 11, 2017 10:38 pm

Good evening climbing at the wall. Thanks to Andy and Dave for belaying and tutoring on belaying technique. When Dave came down the first climb he said I made 3 major mistakes - not enough slack at the clipping on stage, too much slack when he was setting off at the top, and dropping him too hard on the floor. There is a serious point here. If we actually tell each other when we do things wrong, we can try to improve. By the end of the night I could actually belay Andy up a climb without getting any complaints at all!
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Re: Tuesday 11th Rylstone

Postby Lindsay M » Wed Jul 12, 2017 6:10 am

Nice one, John. Even very experienced people can fall into bad habits so it's always good to be able to give and take constructive criticism.
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Re: Tuesday 11th Rylstone

Postby CathS » Wed Jul 12, 2017 7:18 am

I hope Dave is still in one piece :shock: Don't go breaking my Best Boy!

I've always thought it is worthwhile if you are new to climbing to invest some time and money in some formal instruction /training courses to iron out any bad habits or dodgy techniques before they get too ingrained. And there is always something to learn even if you've been climbing for years.
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Re: Tuesday 11th Rylstone

Postby Will Hunt » Wed Jul 12, 2017 9:02 am

Kilnsey was in excellent nick. Just about everything dry and not a midge in sight thanks to the easterly breeze.
It made me wonder whether Rylstone would have been OK, but I think it would have been midgey up there in the lee of the crag anyway (as it was at Crookrise).
Warmed up on Highway 395 and had to sit on the rope at the crux after Sean's beta didn't work for me.
Then had a go on Quiet Flight which was excellent. Dropped the flash on the second to last hard move when I didn't see a big hold and was using the little crimp next to it. Then home time, so my record of failure at Kilnsey is still untarnished. Four visits and not one climb ticked yet!
Quiet Flight would probably suit you well, James. Technical wall climbing to start, into a good rest. A few crimpy moves into a less good rest. A few tricky moves to finish but not too bad when you've figured out the sequence.
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Re: Tuesday 11th Rylstone

Postby JR » Wed Jul 12, 2017 9:38 am

I suppose yesterday's rain will come through in a few days then.

Glad to hear it was midge free. No wind at all round here.

I've checked and I think that I've been on Quiet flight once, probably about 11 years ago, and it, if it is the one I think it is, I found it doable except for one 'stopper' move. Probably do need to get on it sooner rather than later!

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Re: Tuesday 11th Rylstone

Postby Dave C » Wed Jul 12, 2017 7:22 pm

johnnightingale wrote:Good evening climbing at the wall. Thanks to Andy and Dave for belaying and tutoring on belaying technique. When Dave came down the first climb he said I made 3 major mistakes - not enough slack at the clipping on stage, too much slack when he was setting off at the top, and dropping him too hard on the floor. There is a serious point here. If we actually tell each other when we do things wrong, we can try to improve. By the end of the night I could actually belay Andy up a climb without getting any complaints at all!


I don't think I said they were "major mistakes", just areas where you could improve. And I wouldn't have mentioned it if you hadn't asked for feedback.
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